Monday, October 31, 2005

Long Night Ahead

@ 3 minutes per page

Essence of Decision: Explaining the Cuban Missile Crisis
416 pages > 20.8 hours. Done.

Rethinking Allison's Models
21 pages > 1.05 hours. Done

Fine, now put all that in context and finish a paper by 1:30 p.m. tomorrow... long night ahead.

Sunday, October 30, 2005

Some Climbing Jargon and the Phrase of the Day

Great climbing at Reimer's Ranch this weekend. I went with Carlos, a guy from Cuba. We started with easy routes and worked our way to more difficult ones, leading 5.6 to 5.9 climbs by the end of the day. I also climbed my first 5.11! For those of you outside the climbing world, routes are rated in level of difficulty from 5.0 to 5.14+, with 5.6 being the first level where you actually "climb". Anything below it is just steep hiking. A 5.9 is a respectable climb that anyone should be able to do after a couple of months of regularly visiting the gym. Anything above that begins to get more technical, so my first 5.11 is a nice accomplishment!.

"Leading" means to climb the route with the rope below you, and as you gain distance from the ground you clip yourself to bolts that have been drilled on the rock (there is another way but I'll keep it simple). When you get to the top, there should be two "anchors" through which you clip the rope. Once you've done that you can simply sit on your harness and your "belayer" (the person below at the other end of the rope) can lower you down. Now the route is set up for other climbers to "Top Rope" it, in other words they won't have to worry about clipping on the bolts as they're going up, because the top of the rope is already threaded and they are safe from falling. Top roping is therefore easier than lead climbing, and the latter requires more skill, more training, and a greater risk of falling. (Greater risk of falling doesn't mean "falling to your death", it simply means you might fall a few times on your way up, but as you lock yourself onto the bolts drilled on the wall they will catch your fall. It's just not as "clean" a fall as when you are top roping, because you might swing a bit as the rope stops you from hitting the ground).

Rock Climbing is a pretty safe sport as long as you exercise caution and follow the rules. Expect a few minor bruises and scratches every now and then, all in exchange for a lot of fun and an amazing sense of accomplishment (you're really competing against yourself, and every time you get on the rock you can really see how you're progressing).

I leave you now with the phrase of the day, pronounced by a fellow climber as he was half way up a 5.9 route with three people below cheering him up. We were all telling the guy: "Come on, you can do it! Get up there! Nice Move!"...all he managed to say before falling and deciding to take a brake was:

"The Spirit is Willing, But the Flesh is Weak". I should stamp that on a T-Shirt and wear it when I go climbing.

Thursday, October 27, 2005

So Much to Do

aaaggghhhh.....
This week and the next don't seem to have enough days to finish everything I need to do! And of course I have a class where I get assigned group projects as if I was in high school. That really helps.

Monday, October 24, 2005

Toonie in my pocket


Today I found a toonie in my pocket : ) It has been a while since I wore that jacket. Any jacket for that matter! I hope the weather is nice up there. It was ridiculously cold in San Antonio this morning.

Sneaky Hypnos


Beware of Hypnos, god of Sleep, enemy of hard working graduate students, spoiler of plans, foe of deadlines.
(He's the little winged fella. I believe he has developed a resistance to caffeine, the only known legal antidote against his spell. I wanted to see what he looked like, perhaps next time I'll see him coming.)

Sunday, October 23, 2005

Climbing Competition @ UTSA

I thought the country music would set the scene for today's climbing competition at school. My lens had chalk all over it and most of the pictures looked as if they had been rained on. I was able to save a few, I hope you like them!


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Posted by juanpablo

Saturday, October 22, 2005

Hilarious Failure in Four Easy Steps

How would you like to have a good laugh?

Try this:
1.) Go to www.google.com
2.)Type "failure" on the search bar.
3.)Click the "I'm Feeling Lucky" icon.
4.)Proceed to laugh.

Friday, October 21, 2005

Late

Dammit! That's two nights in a row that I hear the "thump" of the newspaper being delivered to my downstairs' neighbor. I should get some sleep.

Thursday, October 20, 2005

B1= rYX1 - (rYX2 * rYX2)/1-r2x1x2

I don't get it. Do you?

Wednesday, October 19, 2005

Deadlines and Compulsiveness


Coming home after two days without sleep, I hurriedly opened my backpack and dug out the still warm, toasted sandwich. I couldn't make up my mind...do I get the sandwich out of the paper wrapper first? Do I get a coke from the fridge? Do I open the cabinets to get the giant bag of chips? Out was the sandwich and my backpack just dropped to the floor, I decided to eat it with one had as I grabbed a soda with the other, and forgot the chips since it was too much trouble to get them from the top cabinet. I was too hungry. One minute later, after my to-go sandwich was gone (pun intended) I looked around me.
What a mess. Overflowing trash cans, dirty dishes, unmade bed, dirty laundry, climbing gear from my last trip all over the floor.

Damn deadlines. You can't escape them, and in the process of meeting them, you have don't have time to clean up after yourself. My apartment is a war zone.

You don't understand. This is a major disaster. Have you ever watched Monk? Have you had a chance to see As Good as it Gets? Well, Adrian Monk and Melvin Udall might give you an idea of how anal (or, shall I say, obsessive compulsive?) I am. The funny thing is that I am aware of it and chose to be that way. In fact, I can easily suppress the obsessiveness, and I never do it around other people for fear of being ridiculed. But in the privacy of my own home, I get some sick pleasure from being as obsessive-compulsive as you can possibly imagine. Explain that. I just like it; I think of ways I can be even more anal. I straighten corners, stack up papers, line up cups, plates and mugs, fold pants right down the center and make sure all the coat hangers are exactly the same distance from one another. Of course I can;t do that when I'm in school and have stupid deadlines to meet (maybe I am the stupid one and should give up my sick obsession...oh well). Since you're taking the time to read this I guess you've earned the right to learn a little secret. Would you like to know what the latest addition to my bathroom cabinets is? A Windex and paper towels. Big deal, you say. Then I explain: Well, what happens is that every morning after I brush my teeth and shave, I reach for the windex and the paper towels and wipe the bathroom's mirror clean. I then line up my toothbrush and toothpaste parallel to each other on the right hand cabinet, and make sure the hand towel is straightened. Sigh.

Instead, today everything is out of place. The mirror is not clean, the dishes are dirty, the bed is undone. And the worst part is, my deadline got postponed! Well, this time the paper will have to wait, because I can't think straight with all this mess around me. And, being as obsessive as I am, I will also have to go rent As Good as it Gets, because I can't find a screen shot of the image I remember most vividly from the movie: Melvin opening his bathroom mirror's cabinet, revealing neatly stacked columns upon columns of new boxed soap bars, which he discards after one use. So if by any chance you see that image posted here, that actually means I drove three miles to the nearest Blockbuster, rented the movie, watched it, paused it on that scene and took a screen shot, which I later downloaded into my computer and I finally posted it here.

What can I say? At least the apartment will be clean by then.

Tuesday, October 18, 2005

Link to Video - Rock Climbing this weekend

Just a 30 second clip of Than's attempt at "Head" (5.12c) It's a great video! Lots of screaming and cheering; Than takes a good fall. I shot it with my digital photo camera so it's a bit grainy. Make sure you have your speakers on (but not too loud or you'll wake up your neighbor)
CLICK HERE

Sunday, October 16, 2005

Climbing at Reimers

See below for the slide show of this Saturday's trip to Reimer's Ranch, an amazing climbing spot a little over an hour away from San Antonio.
I'm sorry about the small size of the pictures, I had to compromise and make a choice between resolution and storage space, which is very limited on the free version of FotoFlix. I hope you enjoy the slide show. I also have a great 30 second video of Than working a problem and everyone else cheering him up, I'm checking out Google's new video hosting service, so they have to preview and authorize the file before it can be posted, I have already submitted it for review. As soon as it gets cleared I will post a link here, so check back in a couple of days at the latest. The slide show is set up at 4 seconds per slide. I suggest instead of clicking PLAY, simply click NEXT to scroll to the next picture. For some of them 4 seconds is barely enough time to see what's going on, for others it's is a long time. Also, please feel free to add comments, I like visitors!


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Posted by juanpablo

Saturday, October 15, 2005

One Year Blogging!

Wow, I just realized that last Thursday (October 14) my blog turned a year old! I went through some of those posts and was amazed at how much things have changed. Grad school turned out to be the one thing that stayed as planned. I looked at pictures of my old apartment and they brought back some memories, nice warm memories. I like the fact that somehow I am able to retain only the good things and forget the few bad days I may have had in the past (if any, because I honestly don't remember them). I have had two serious relationships in the past, and I have remained friends, I would say good friends with both Jenn and Ona and also with their families.

Somehow this long-distance relationship thing seems to be part of my life. Last summer a really cute girl began working at Barnes & Noble, and what started as a fling between us became little by little more serious. It has been several months now, and I think it is fair to say that we have been dating since around July.

So there, I've said it: I have a girlfriend. It may come as a bit of a surprise to some people who visit my blog every now and then, some others might have guessed it. But we have been going out for quite some time now, talking daily on the phone, and she has visited several times from Houston. I'm breaking the news for everyone, even though my mom and sister probably suspected it, but I suppose the one year anniversary of my blog would be a suitable ocassion to say something at least of importance to me? Tiffany is a great girl, she makes me happy, she makes me smile.

It's funny how this post came out of nowhere. I posted a comment at a friend's blog and noticed that my profile didn't link to my own blog, so I decided to fix the settings, which is when I noticed that I've been blogging since Oct/04. Of course I had to check what I was posting a year ago! Long story short, here I am on my impromptu post sort of playing it by ear without hitting backspace to delete or edit anything. This post will be uploaded as-is, and hopefully it will turn out ok. This is something I don't do very often, I tend to be very anal about many things, and my writings are one of them. Well, not today. And I must be honest when I say that I have been procrastinating for several hours when I have a book to read for tomorrow and a paper to write for Wednesday (plus I have to study 4 chapters for statistics and work 10 hours on my research assistantship) so I should probably go.

But here it is, my anniversary post. Meet Tiff

Research-a-lot + grad school drama

So now I have two jobs! Well, I'll work for two people doing the same thing. I got two research assistantships with the Poli Sci department, one with Dr. Bellows on International Relations and Asian countries, the other with Dr, Rosales on Mexican American labor and migration. Pretty cool stuff! The only problem is I don't know how I'm going to manage to do that AND finish all my school work! I'll be busy this weekend. I have decided that I won't sacrifice rock climbing for school, so I might have to cut on sleep time or something, but I am going to climb.

Everything else is going well, except Statistics (not surprisingly it has become a major headache) but apparently if I get a hundred on the final I can make up for my shameful performance on the midterm...there is hope! I seem to understand multiple regressions better than the basic stuff at the beginning of the semester (which I still don't get).

There is a lot of drama with some people in my class involving married people cheating with other students (who knew nothing about the marital status of the people involved) on the program and some other not-so-nice stuff. Apparently next week everything is going to "go public" and hell is going to break lose. It's going to suck because there is already a lot of tension and a bunch of us are going to be faced with taking sides. Just to be clear, I am in no way involved in this, other than being friends with the quarreling parties. I wish I could say more but I prefer to maintain my fellow students' privacy, just in case someone from the program ends up getting my blog address.

Next Wednesday I'm going to attend an orientation conference on how to get certified as a teacher while I finish my Masters. I am still considering my options but teaching seems to be more and more appealing as time goes by, we shall see...

Thursday, October 13, 2005

John F Kerry, that is

Oh, come on. You have to admit that it at least elicited a chuckle! It's for sale as a bumper sticker here:
www.dontblamemeivoted4kerry.com
I'm so tempted, but you never know, a red neck might smash your windshield. You should also check out the "Just pretend IT'S ALL OK" all american ribbon!

Wednesday, October 12, 2005

ok, maybe I am anal

Can anyone please tell me why pre-cut hotdog buns are not split exactly down the middle but one half is invariably thinner than the other?

Truck and Christmas Lights in October

Today I saw a couple holding hands and being very affectionate to each other. It was just after sunset, the light was dim and the weather very nice. It would seem like a reasonable thing to do, to share some time with your better half and enjoy a nice evening. It would all have been ok, except they were in my apartment complex's parking lot, sitting in the trunk of their huge pickup truck, contemplating the beautiful job I assume they had just completed...You guessed it right: their Christmas light decorations on their balcony, with intricate and colorful designs of string lights shaped like Santas, deer and Christmas trees... Sigh...What is wrong with this people? Need I add their truck had a "I'M4W" sticker?

iPod Again

And here they go again. Now you can get a video-playing iPod. That's great, except that if I had bought a nano last week I would have been really pissed I spent that kind of money and a month later Apple came out with something better. It happened to me before with the mini. I was pleased with my new toy, and less than three months later Mac launched the smaller nano. All I can say is that a lesson to be learned is to hold off at least two or three months before you buy the latest apple release, since they might sneak on you and offer something better the week after you spent your hard-earned money (or your parents') on their no-longer latest gadget. Innovation is a good thing, but please Steve, let us breath, and at least allow us a few months of indulgence with out cool little white things before you come up with something else, or I am really going to begin hating you and might just stop buying them once and for all. I know you're exploiting us and I'm fine with that as long as I can keep listening to my music and spinning the still amazing ipod wheel, but you better stop rubbing it in our faces. Slow down.

Genius

I just visited an old friend of a friend's (ex-girlfriend, to be precise) web page. The page is brilliant! I wish he had it in English so that many of you were able to enjoy it, but then again it would probably lose its authenticity. Well, he is a writer and movie critic (like, a real one, as in - he does it for a living) so many things make reference to his books, and he has also started a rather entertaining blog with a pretty cool feature! It has links to the short biographies of acquaintances, friends, and family who are part of his every day life. So you really get a feeling of what or who he is talking about when he refers to neighbor x, the church's priest, and so forth. You would not believe how this simple idea could make a blog a million times more entertaining and personal! There's some other pretty crazy and funny stuff like statistics about how many minutes he has spent eating, walking, reading and even performing bodily functions for his entire life. Don't get me wrong, it's not nasty or anything like that, it is just plain funny. There is also a "personal" map of Bogota, where he resides, with hyperlinks to points of interest -for his own life- such as his High School, his house, the neighborhood store, his work, and other things. In short, you really leave feeling you know this guy as much as you would a good friend, which is probably the purpose of the website anyways. And you have to keep coming back for more. His blog posts are funny, tasteful, and very well written. I'm glad I decided to check back and see what he was up to. Without any further introduction, and if you feel like practicing some Spanish, visit www.ricardosilvaromero.com

Monday, October 10, 2005

Cute spell check

Blogger's spell check is so cute. It asks if you really meant FUCKING and not BUCKING. Yes dear, Fucking, fucking book that is, the one I need to help my professor finish but he doesn't seem to care. Thanks for the heads up though, I mean, I could have meant bucking...right?

One of those days when you sigh four times.

Good, next Spring's schedule is up! Let's see what classes I can sign up for...humm... Nope, not that one, or that one either, uh, I'm not taking that, or that...great. Nothing I like. Sigh. That's a good start for my day. After this happened I also found out that I can't drop a class I'm failing miserably, because it will put my attempted credits below the 67% limit required to get Financial Aid next year. Sigh again.
I then got ready to go to the Downtown campus (i.e. ride my bike to the 1604 Campus, then take a 45 minute bus ride to downtown) to meet with the professor I will be working for as a research assistant, who finally got in touch with me after I sent him two emails, called him, and stopped by his office to schedule an appointment TO HELP HIM FINISH HIS FUCKING BOOK. Of course when I get there after freezing my ass off for 45 minutes on the damn city bus the man was not there. Sigh once more.
Very well, I suppose I can use up the time I was going to work with him to go rock climbing at the school's wall, and on my way I can sign up for the climbing competition coming up in a couple of weeks. Of course, it got canceled, wasn't that supposed to happen anyway on a day like today? Sigh yet again.
I did get some climbing done after all, and even though it would have been the perfect day for me to fall and brake some ribs or get run over by a car on my way home, neither one of those two things happened, so I guess it wasn't such a bad day after all. I made a delicious dinner, ate it while I typed this, and now my coffee is ready and I have a wonderful date with "The Culture of National Security," whose 562 pages are spread wide open in my bed just waiting for me to devour them by tomorrow at 5:30 pm. What else can a man ask for? (Oh yeah, I'm going to make sure I get paid for those two hours I wasted going to the other campus.) No more sighs for today.

Sunday, October 09, 2005

Concordance and Print!

Well I've used Google Print before, but not to the full extent of its capabilities. Did you know you can actually search for all other books that have quoted the one you're looking at? It will even show you in which page (and yes, it will show you THE page) where your book was quoted. That's pretty amazing, it cuts down on research time by way over half! Another cool feature coming from an unlikely research source is Amazon.com's "Concordance". It shows you the 100 most used words on your book, and the font size of each word is tied to the number of times it appears on the text. Move your cursor over it and it will tell you how many times the word was used. Pretty amazing stuff. It even tells you the number of words you get per dollar or per ounce! That's going a little too far, I know, and it doesn't have a practical use, but it is just amazing that all this information is available now. Amazon also links to other books quoting the one you're searching for, but doesn't show you the page where they were quoted. These are resources that not even the Library of Congress has! I'm all for Google's project to digitize everything they can get their hands on.

Monday, October 03, 2005

Funny Revenge - Bad Procrastination

Yes, I should be studying. Don't ask me how I came across this, I just did and I don't even know where. Some guy full of hatred shares his step by step instructions on how to get back to the spammers who send unsolicited mail to your house. He provides pictures of the process of folding an old tire into a box and affixing the postage paid envelopes he received from MCI. He also suggests you add rocks and trash until you get just below the 72 pound legal limit for postage that will be billed to the recipient. You should see this! click here
And I need to go back to studying for my statistics test. Have a good laugh.