Friday, January 27, 2006

My Oprah Dilemma

So, the number one e-mail article on today's New York Times is: "Author Is Kicked Out of Oprah Winfrey's Book Club". Sigh. I don't know whether to think that Oprah's book club viewers have gotten smarter, or New Yor Times readers have become more stupid.

Thursday, January 19, 2006

Mexico Journal - Itinerary

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Pictures of the Trip

CLICK HERE TO SEE THE PICTURES!

Wednesday, January 18, 2006

Mexico Journal - Getting There

Tiffany and I left San Antonio on January third, to our designated bus departure at a Taqueria (who wants to ride a Greyhound bus bounded towards Mexico anyway?) Surprisingly, Mexican buses are far better equipped and more comfortable than those in America. We crossed the border 3 hours later and by early next morning we were having our first meal in San Miguel de Allende. We jumped out of the "pesero", the bus that took us from the station into the Zocalo (main plaza) and right in front of us there was a croud surrounding a street cart selling the "breakfast of champions" Tamales and Atole, a sweet chocolate flavored, somewhat slimy, but very energizing drink.

We were traveling with a guide published in 2003, so a few hostels listed had gone out of business and we had to settle for the supposedly cheapest place in town, which was still a few dollars above our original budget. Once free of our backpacks we spent the evening walking around town and taking many pictures. San Miguel's architecture and history as a colonial city remains fairly intact, but it has become such a popular place for American tourists that the entire town now offers menus in English, and there are several American-run guide services (which we found to be a sad tragedy, since this could be an industry that the locals could profit from). It is a beautiful place worth seeing, but we wanted to run away from the touristy spots pretty soon, and decided to head towards Mexico City, where my friend Vanessa and her boyfriend Raul had offered us a place to stay the next day.

Mexico Journal - Mexico City "DF"

Mexico City is the Distrito Federal, hence it is called "DF" or just Mexico by the locals. It is a city of contrasts, where new and old are mixed together, and one can find modern, colonial, and old neighborhoods just footsteps away from each other. Some areas have a very European feeling, such as the Paseo de la Reforma, which is a Champs-Elysees Mexican style, flanked by statues of the republic's most distinguished heroes and lawmakers, and every few blocks one can find gorgeous monuments like the Angel de la Independencia, perhaps one of the city's most famous landmarks.

We marveled at their transportation system (after all, getting 30 million people to and from work every day has to be a daunting task). The Metro runs very efficiently and covers the majority of the city. Twenty cents of a US dollar will get you anywhere; once you're inside the metro tunnels, you can transfer as many times as you want with a single ticket. The Metro-Bus covers areas not serviced by the metro; a series of designated lines run almost like an above-ground extension of the tunnel system. All this is combined with the traditional third world country "flag your bus anywhere" system, to provide an incredibly efficient transportation network (of course you can always take one of their famous bright-green Volkswagen beetle cabs for a few extra pesos).

If you like art and museums you have come to the right place. Bellas Artes and the Museo de Antropologia house massive permanent and travelling exhibits, and seeing the entirety of their collections will take you several days. We stormed through both of them due to time constraints, and agreed that we must go back even if only to finish our visits to these two sights. Other museums and buildings to visit include Frida Khalo's house, Diego Rivera's murals in the Palacio Nacional, and Leon Trotsky's house, which we didn't have time to see. Several Mercados are open during the week, but weekends are specially busy. Coyoacan was our favorite, but I must admit it was mostly because of the proximity to Vanessa and Raul's house. Local artisans sell their crafts, artists and musicians perform live on the streets, and there is food galore. We could smell pot in the air and hear bongs going everywhere, mostly from inside the street vendor's shops. The atmosphere was always festive and lively. Mexico City's youth flocks to this markets, usually located in plazas and zocalos, most of which also have parks. Couples sit on every bench and next to every water fountain on the parks, and it is hard to walk by without seeing people kissing everywhere you look.

We were lucky to be there on a Sunday during the bullfight season, and witnessed a corrida de toros at the "Monumental", the largest bullfighting plaza of the world, with seating for 41.000 people. Sadly, we missed the opening ceremony...we were trying to see and do too many things in one day. Tiffany had to spend Saturday in bed, her body was probably complaining from the water we drank at the hostels, or perhaps one of our meals on the street, but after a couple of liters of Pedyalite and some rest she quickly recovered, and we had to make up the lost time.

Sunday night we realized our budget was not enough, and even a generous $150 "grant" from my mother barely covered what we had originally planned to do. We decided to cut short our trip to the pyramids of Tehotihuacan and headed over to Oaxaca.

Mexico Journal - Oaxaca

It is hard to describe the beauty of this friendly and welcoming town. I thought the architecture of places like Villa de Leyva in Colombia was unrivaled, but the most beautiful colonial places I have visited are no match for this amazing town of roughly 300.000 people.
The Zocalo (the central plaza) is circled by four water fountains, one on each corner, with gorgeous gardens all around. Small cafes and shops cater tourists and locals alike, and live music can be heard in almost every street. We found a hostel that had opened a couple of weeks earlier, and were delighted to find out that our rate per night was much cheaper than what we had originally budgeted for. It was still a family house with no sign on the door or anyhting, and we got there after knocking on another of the out-of-business hostals from my outdated guide. The owner suggested we tried his neighbor's house.

An older man opened the door and said he had a room available. When we went in, we found two Russian girls and a Czech guy who looked very surprised that we knew about the place. They had knocked on the door thinking it was the hostel we were also looking for, and did not understand what was going on, but were happy to have found a cheap place to stay. They offered us potatoes from the meal they had just cooked and we agreed that the next day we would visit together the archaeological site of Monte Alban, a not so well-known (at least by me) ancient city second in size only to Chichen-Itza and Tehotihuacan. It looked like we would get our share of ancient pyramids after all.

Once there, we ran into some friends we made in the bus to Oaxaca, a Canadian girl who has travelled the world dressed in black and without a guidebook, who also refuses to use email or the internet, and two Norwegian girls who had just come back from volunteering for a semester in Ecuador. They were leaving to the beach the next day, so we met that night at a local bar for drinks and decided to go with them in a tortuous 10 hour bus drive across the mountains and into the Pacific, to a beautiful beach called Puerto Escondido.

Mexico Journal - Puerto Escondido

The trip took longer than expected, and we were ready to drop our backpacks in the first place we could find. We met yet another group of girls, this time from Sweeden, who highly recommended the Hostal Mayflower. It was a bit "expensive" for our budget ($10 each) but the money was well worth it, and I was spending the night in the same room with four women by the beach, so I wasn't about to complain! Hehehe. We had a couple of Caipirinhas during happy hour (until midnight) at a bar run by a Mexican an Argentinean and a Colombian, and then crashed in our beds.

The next day we found out that the buses to Mexico City only leave in the evening, so Tiff and I were forced to buy tickets for that night; we had a long journey back and had to make it to San Antonio in two and a half days. We spent the day at the beach, then paid 10 pesos for a shower, bought hammocks, cotton pants perfect for rock climbing, some crafts, and headed back to Mexico city on a 16 hour overnight trip. I had come well prepared and both of my books seemed to be quite fitting for this journey. While cruising through Mexico I read The Motorcycle Diaries by Che Guevara, and On the Road, by Jack Kerouack, which I haven't finished yet.

Mexico Journal - Time to Come Home

Once back in DF we visited a couple of sites, rode the "MetroBus" for a ground-level experience of the city, walked down the gorgeous Paseo de la Reforma, and missed our connection to Nuevo Laredo. Fortunately the next bus was leaving an hour later and the people at the ticket counter found seats for us. Another 16 hours and we could already see the huge American flag (of course, not bigger than the Mexican) across the border.

From Nuevo Laredo to San Antonio we had a five hour drive, and once at the bus terminal we had to walk to the nearest bus stop of the Via (San Antonio's public transportation system). We had to say goodbye to the cordial and personal way of dealing with people, and return to the technical and cold American system. No more asking the shoeshiner when the next bus gets here, we had to dial a number and use a touch-tone phone to enter the bus stop number and listen to the recording spit out the schedule.

Once on the bus, used to asking the drivers to let me know when my stop came up, I asked the same to the Via driver, who simply mumbled: "There is a recording that announces the stops as we approach them". We then had to do three transfers and spent nearly three hours to get home in a city of not even two million people, when in Mexico, a "third world country" we could get accross the 30 million people capital in one hour without leaving the metro stations.

Back in S.A.

Well, here I am again. I deleted 75 of the 767 pictures I took on my trip, then carefully edited most of the remaining ones. After doing this I decided to try a Flickr account to publish my pictures, which seemed pretty cool, and after spending 5 hours working on this I realized that it won't let me publish more than 3 albums. I had organized my pictures in like-groups (architecture, people, etc) now I need to decide whether I want to switch over to Yahoo Photos, which is free (but start all over again and have not-so-fancy services,) or if I want to pay $24.95 per year for a premium Flickr account and have access to all their options.
It's 4:30 am so I won't make that decision tonight. I just wanted to post for those who might be wondering whether I made it home and those who would like to see the pictures. Believe me, I'm working on it, as well as on a brief journal of my trip.

Monday, January 02, 2006

Going to Mexico

Hello all,

All those trips to the Mexican Consulate obviously had a reason, I'm going to Mexico for a couple of weeks! I'm traveling with Tiffany, and we're going to stretch a very limited budget hopefully until January 16. My friend Vanessa has graciously offered to provide us with a place to sleep in Mexico City, where we will arrive after a short visit to San Miguel de Allende. The last five or six days of the trip are still uncharted, we might head south to Oaxaca, but nothing has been decided yet.
It promises to be a fun adventure from start to end. Below you will find an excerpt to an email I just sent to Vanessa:

...Well, after doing some low-tech research I found a place where I can get cheap bus tickets that would get me across the border to Nuevo Laredo. Tiffany and I are leaving tomorrow from the "Taqueria Mazatlan" in the south side of San Antonio, and for $20 each we'll be on the Mexican side of the bridge by mid-afternoon. The bus will take us to a main station where we will be able to find the best deals to go inland. We will most likely go to San Miguel, unless the tickets are more reasonably priced if we go to el D.F. first (which I doubt).
Do you have a local number where I can get a hold of you? If you could, please check your email daily over the next three days so that we can stay in touch while I'm there. By the way, would you like to join us in San Miguel? If you don't have any plans I'm sure we would have a blast! Needless to say, if you want to come with your boyfriend he would be more than welcome too. Let me know if you're interested, and if that is the case, pack you bags and be ready b/c I'll call you when we get there!...

I will try to post a couple of pictures and a few updates -depending on access to internet service- so check back if you would like to know what we're up to.

Cheers!